KHAJURAHO: ANCIENT GLORY AND STORIES WRITTEN ON STONES

Madhya Pradesh-The heart of Incredible India is known for its excellent historical and archaeological sites. The regal state has it all that takes to be the centre of India- be it the rich history, culture, tradition or art. The intricate carvings on majestic monuments are exceptionally famous among travellers from all over the world. After travelling solo across the Rajasthan mesmerised by its forts, culture, food and desert, here comes the untold stories from heart of India and their spectacular destinations, culture, and everything else. 

There are few places in the world which is spiritual as well as a masterpiece. Khajurao built in 970 CE by Chandela. Now its a UNESCO world heritage site. It was then when all those class 8th history lessons about Khajuraho and its temples came to my mind. With a blink of an eye, I found myself booking a train ticket to Khajuraho. Khajuraho takes its name from ‘Khajur’ or as we call it Date Palm in English. The presence of date tress gifted the city its name. Khajuraho temple site had 85 temples by the 12th century, spread over 20 square kilometres. However, at present only 22 - 25 temples are existing, spread over six square kilometres. The first recorded mention of the Khajuraho temples is found in the accounts of Abu Rihan al Biruni in 1022 AD and the Arab traveller Ibn Battuta in 1335 AD.

Epitome of Life: Stories written on stones

Khajuraho is a small town with peace and tranquility across. and a perfect destination to go solo and explore the town.

The carvings on the temples depict the daily routine activities of the people of medieval era from playing musical instruments and dancing to giant elephants marching as part of battleships; women applying make-up and knotting their hair to men courting their female partners. Contrary to the popular belief, erotic art constitutes only 10% of the temple sculptures.

                                         

Lets go step by step in detailed layout of Khajuraho:

1- Western Group of Temples
At the Western Group, you will see some of the most sensational temples such as Lakshman temple, Kandariya Mahadev Temple, Devi Mandap.

Kandariya Mahadev Temple:

As you enter the premises through gates, there in front of you stands the largest temple among all the three groups of Khajuraho complex, the Kandariya Mahadev temple with all its grandeur. This temple is 102 ft in height from ground to Kalash (the top most point) and 66 ft wide. Plinth of the temple itself is 13 ft high. Lord Shiva is the main deity of this temple. The structure of this temple resembles of a mountain, comprising of a series of 'shikharas' of varying heights in ascending order. The word Kandariya originated from 'Kandara', which means cave. So Kandariya Mahadev means 'Lord Shiv who lives in cave' and this is somewhat reflected from the architecture of the temple. Various windows resemble like openings of the cave.

Another astonishing fact that I noticed was Pratapeshwar Temple with its unique style of Hinduism, Budhhist and Islamic architecture. It the eyes that beholds the beauty of this place.

2- Eastern Group of Temples
A kilometer towards the east from the western group of Temples is the Khajur Sagar and the old village of Khajuraho. The temples in the Western group are Brahma temple, Javari temple, and Vaman temple.
After visiting the temple you can interact with local people and half km away there is a 4km track where you can go for a trek as well.

3- Jain Group of Temples
The main Jain temples include the Parshvanath Temple around 954 AD, the Ghantai Temple around 960 AD, and the Adinath Temple around 1027 AD.

4-Chaturbhuj Temple (On Southern side)

Built in AD 1100, the Chaturbhuj Temple is also known as the Jatakari Temple and is counted amongst the Southern Group of Temples in Khajuraho. The shrine stands 3 kilometres away from the Eastern Group in the Jatakari Village and is popular for its impressive architecture. It has an entrance porch, sanctum without ambulatory, mandapa and vestibule.This temple is one-of-its-kind in the whole complex as it is the only shrine without any erotic carvings on the walls. Dedicated to the Hindu Lord Vishnu, the shrine houses a 9 feet tall idol in His Chaturbhuj form (with four arms). This is the reason why the temple has been named as the Chaturbhuj Temple.

5- Light and sound show

It's the best and must evening activity where you get an opportunity to understand the history, facts, and myths of Khajuraho temples. It is organized in Khajuraho Western Group of Temples. It is available in two shows the first show in English and second show in Hindi.

For Videos and photos please follow: https://www.instagram.com/p/CS1s6L8I6Fm/

Raja Cafe: Cafe with view

Khujaraho being a prominent tourist spot of international fame, you can find cuisine of any type, be it Italian, Thai, Chinese, Continental, South Indian and even Vegan food. Besides big hotels, there are several eating joints too, near the Western Group of temples. A Right in front of western group is Raja Cafe and the restaurant. It was started in 1978 by a Swiss adventurer who made a remote corner of India his permanent home. There is one Safari canteen in front of ASI museum that serves yummy food. It adds delight after the evening light & sound show.

                                                      

Raneh Falls

Raneh Falls which is almost 1 hour away from Khajuraho. As it was the monsoon season, Ken River was expected to create a waterfall at the Grand Canyon. The falls are situated in Ken Gharial Sanctuary the entry fee to which is 100 per person and 200 for a car. Soon after I reached the place, I could see the red crystalline granite canyons spread across a large distance. At some places, we were able to see the shades of pink and grey as well.

For Videos and photos please follow:https://www.instagram.com/p/CTGkBYyJIxw/

There are various schools of thought behind the rationale for depiction of erotic themes in the carvings. One of them state that this is part of Hindu tradition of treating ‘kama’ as an essential part of human life and hence its symbolic display is common in Hindu temples. The other anecdote states that the ‘Chandela’ rulers worried by the scholarly bent of mind of people during that era and a dwindling population found ways to attract people’s attention to erotic art through depiction in temples. The attention to detail in the sculptures is overwhelming from contoured bodies to intricate beads of jewellery to vivid facial expressions suggesting varied moods of human beings and animals.

Travel Tip: Visit during monsoon if you want to feel the mesmerising beauty.

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